Point Break

After a day or two one has adapted to the black beaches and the little cooler Indonesian climate. Leaving Australia did hurt a little. But now we are accompanied by long-haired hunks and bikini babes.

Have winded up on an island with surfboards, washing boards, yoga, organic products and we are drawn in. Green nurseries, drinks, food and we walk where we're going. Here, one should maybe not be a soon 43, bald and novice, but I do not care.

Thinking out loud “Out of the way, give me a board, a wave & let me try this”. Is reasonably crap at wakeboarding possibly a little better at snowboarding, but clearly the worst in the spout, you get it.

I book an appointment with someone unknown Balinese named Kadek. We go through some theory on the beach during the five minute warm-up. "Lay like this, paddle like this and stand up like this, OK"?? "No problem" (still don't know if I want the left foot at the front or the back, the left-handed ghost).

Paddle out, hardly difficult but tedious!! Turn up the boat, my board is gigantic. “Paddle!” Pupung roars (which is obviously the coach's nicknames at the beach). Paddles and the wave takes hold of the board. Nice feeling, stand up, pure disaster.

Now my identity is not in some glam-rock hair from the 80s, so full paddling back to the coach. Pant a little and get new tips on how to get up quickly with control. Newbie wave on its way, paddle, paddle. Get up. Magic…… fuck I'm surfing! After two hours the lesson ends. My shoulders are completely exhausted and muscle soreness is already present. But I do not care, and book new lesson for the next morning.

The second lesson is wonderful, do not fall at all. The final 30 minutes we move out from the spot we tend to hang between the waves. Larger waves here I have to spin around, board on top and me underneath before the wave hits. Paddle 5-6 crawls, new wave, spin. Not at all hard, just fun. Catch our breath a bit before we run, paddle away and come up directly. Wow… after an eternity, perhaps 5 seconds the wave breaks over mig..good bye tumble around like an elf upside down no clue. Finally, I breathe oxygen. Make two more runs and the last wave takes me all the way to the beach… happiness.

Third class completed, Now we go for a narrower, shorter board, a bit like my body size. Surfing is ridiculously fun and suits a young 40+ perfectly. It is difficult but not impossible, a little like skiing but I am happier among bikinis & sunglasses than Norse overalls & goggles.

“The bad news is that time flies. The good news is that you’re the pilot” Ben Willis

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